Where to Eat in La Fortuna: A Tico's Honest Guide to Every Budget

One of the questions we get all the time from travelers heading to La Fortuna is: 'What's the food situation like? Is everything expensive? Are there options besides rice and beans?' And honestly, we love that question — because the answer is going to surprise you. La Fortuna has over 250 places to eat. Two hundred and fifty. For a town that most people think is just a stop on the way to Arenal Volcano, that's kind of wild. And the range goes from $5 casados that'll change your life to $48 plates that belong in a food magazine. So let us — a bunch of Ticos who've been driving travelers to La Fortuna for years — break it all down for you.

First Things First: What's a Soda?

No, not Coca-Cola. In Costa Rica, a 'soda' is a small, family-run restaurant — usually open-air, with plastic chairs, a handwritten menu on a whiteboard, and someone's abuela or tía cooking out back. These are the heart and soul of Costa Rican food. If you skip the sodas, you skip the real Costa Rica. Period. In La Fortuna, there are easily a dozen or more of them, and this is where locals eat every single day.

The star of every soda is the casado. That's our national lunch plate — rice, black beans, salad, fried plantains, and your choice of chicken, beef, pork, or fish. It's the most satisfying meal you'll have for under $8, and every soda makes it a little different. Some add a fried egg on top. Others throw in an extra tortilla. The point is, it's homemade, it's huge, and it costs less than a cocktail at your hotel.

The Sodas You Need to Know

• Soda La Hormiga — Right next to the bus terminal. Casados around $5-$6. Open from 6 AM, which makes it perfect for an early start before your tour. This place is always full of locals, which tells you everything
• Soda Los Rodriguez — Always packed. A family of four can eat here — four meals, a couple of hot dogs for the kids, and a smoothie — for about $30 total. Cash only, but worth it
• Soda Sabores Lulu — Feels like eating at someone's grandma's house, because that's basically what it is. Pure home-cooking roots
• Soda Mima — Off the tourist trail and a little tricky to find, but that's exactly why it's good. No tourist markup, just real Tico food
• Soda Viquez — Next to the Rainforest Cafe, generous portions at budget-friendly prices. A solid everyday lunch spot

Pro tip from a local: Most sodas are cash only. Hit a bank ATM when you arrive in La Fortuna and withdraw colones — you'll get the best exchange rate, and you won't be stuck trying to break a $50 bill at a place where the most expensive thing on the menu is $8.

The Mid-Range Sweet Spot: $10-$25 Per Person

Okay, so you've done the soda thing for a couple of days and now you want something different. Maybe a pizza. Maybe sushi. Maybe some Peruvian-Chinese fusion that you didn't expect to find in a volcano town. La Fortuna delivers. This is the price range where most travelers end up eating dinner, and there are some genuinely great options.

Our Top Picks in This Range

• Chifa La Familia Feliz — This is the one that blows everyone's mind. Chinese-Peruvian fusion — the first 'chifa' restaurant in all of Costa Rica. Their aeropuerto (fried rice + stir-fried noodles) is legendary, and the ceviches are unreal. They even have vegan options. 4.8 stars from almost 2,000 TripAdvisor reviews. Enough said
• Pollo Fortuneño — The local rotisserie chicken spot, and mae, it's always packed for a reason. Whole roast chickens with sides that can feed a family. Some dishes start at just $6. This is where Ticos go when they don't feel like cooking
• Kappa Sushi — Yes, sushi in La Fortuna. And it's actually good. About $10 for a 10-piece roll. They have a full vegan sushi section and vegan ramen too, which is pretty rare around here
• Que Rico Arenal — Wood-fired pizzas with volcano views. The pizza is legit, the prices are fair, and the view... well, you're looking at Arenal while eating pizza. Hard to beat that
• Restaurante Nene's — Been around since the mid-90s, right near Central Park. Known for their ceviche, grilled meats, and shrimp cocktails. Big portions, moderate prices. A La Fortuna institution
• El Chante Verde — A little outside of town, boho-chic vibe, international fusion. Two people can eat two upscale entrees with drinks for under $45 total. Their chicken cordon bleu is a sleeper hit
• Lava Lounge Bar & Grill — Owned by Chef Scott Bradley. Good for nachos, wings, wraps, and a solid Costa Rican casado when you want it. Cash only. Saturday nights they have live music with a cover charge of about 6,000 colones

You'll notice something here: La Fortuna is NOT just rice and beans. You can eat Peruvian, Japanese, Italian, Mexican, American-style, and fusion food — all in a town you can walk across in 15 minutes. That surprises a lot of people.

Mercadito Arenal: The Gastro-Market You Didn't Know About

This one is a recent addition and it's quickly become one of our favorite spots to recommend. Mercadito Arenal is a modern food court with separate stalls, each doing their own thing. It's got a 4.9 out of 5 on TripAdvisor, which for a food court is kind of insane.

What's Inside Mercadito Arenal

• La Canalla — Street food done right: burgers, nachos, chicken wings, chifrijo (that's rice and beans topped with crispy pork, pico de gallo, and chimichurri — if you haven't tried it, you need to)
• Rooster — Wood-fired pizzas, crispy and delicious
• Sensei — Sushi for when you're craving something lighter
• Taco Bus — Mexican-style tacos that actually taste like Mexico
• Voodoo Bar — Craft cocktails and mixology drinks to wash it all down

They have live music some evenings, and the atmosphere is just easy and fun. Open daily from noon to about 9:45 PM. It's one of those places where everyone at your table can order something completely different and everyone's happy.

Fine Dining: When You Want to Go All Out

Maybe it's your anniversary. Maybe you just survived a hanging bridges tour and you feel like you've earned it. Either way, La Fortuna has some legitimately world-class dining, and we're not exaggerating.

Don Rufino — The One Everyone Knows

If you ask anyone — tourist, local, tour guide — where the best upscale restaurant in La Fortuna is, they're going to say Don Rufino. It's right in town, diagonal to the gas station, and it's been the gold standard for years. Dishes range from $16 to $48, and the quality matches the price.

• Their signature Grandma's Chicken is marinated in coffee, chocolate, and spices, then slow-cooked in a banana leaf. It sounds crazy and it tastes incredible
• All their beef is grass-fed and hormone-free from local farms — you can actually taste the difference
• The seafood is fresh: Pacific jumbo shrimp, grilled octopus, locally caught trout
• Unique sides you won't find anywhere else: arracacha root puree, pickled fennel, purple corn polenta
• Average dinner check: $31-$50 per person. Reservations recommended, especially during high season

The Resort Restaurants Worth the Splurge

Outside of town, the big resorts have their own dining scenes, and some of them are genuinely spectacular — even if you're not staying there. The Springs Resort has Las Ventanas for fine dining, Tres Cascadas for volcano-view meals, and Ginger Sushi which is rated one of the best sushi spots in the entire country. Fair warning: a family dinner here can easily hit $200. Tabacon Thermal Resort has Ave restaurant with world-class cuisine inspired by local ingredients — dinner for two with drinks runs $100-$200+. And then there's Nayara, which is in a league of its own (rooms go for $700-$1,400 a night, and the restaurants match that energy).

Honest talk: you don't need to spend $50 a plate to eat well in La Fortuna. Some of the best meals we've had in this town cost $7 at a soda. But if you want to treat yourself for one special night? Don Rufino is worth every colón. Just make a reservation.

Coffee, Breakfast & Sweet Stuff

Costa Rica is one of the best coffee-producing countries in the world, so naturally, La Fortuna has some spots that take their beans very seriously. And breakfast here? It's a whole event.

• Red Frog Coffee Roasters — They roast Costa Rican beans daily using the traditional Tico chorreador method (cloth filter drip). The coffee is phenomenal. They also do breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros, gallo pinto, homemade banana bread, and pancakes. Open 7 AM-8 PM, closed Wednesdays
• Organico Fortuna — Organic cafe with a small market attached. Vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options. A bit pricier, but the quality is top-notch. They sell handmade products and natural goods too
• Arabigos Coffee House — Modern coffee culture: expertly crafted cappuccinos and cold brews for the specialty coffee crowd
• Chocolate Fusion — A chocolate-focused breakfast experience that's unique to La Fortuna. If you have a sweet tooth, this is your spot

Street Food & Snacks on the Go

Sometimes you just need something quick between your morning zip-line tour and your afternoon hot springs session. La Fortuna has you covered.

• Empanadas from street vendors: $1.50-$2 each. Stuffed with cheese, beans, chicken, or beef. The perfect walking snack
• Fresh fruit smoothies (batidos): $2-$3 from fruit stands around town. Try the cas — it's a Costa Rican fruit that's tart and refreshing and you probably can't get it back home
• Coconut water straight from the coconut: vendors line Route 142 heading toward the volcano. About $2-$3
• Bakery pastries: $1-$3 at local panaderías. Tres leches cake slices for $3-$4. Pan de coco for $1-$2
• Friday farmers market (feria): fresh tropical fruits, organic produce, handmade snacks. Everything in colones, everything cheap. This is where locals shop

The Stuff Nobody Tells You About Eating in La Fortuna

As locals from La Fortuna who've been sharing our town with travelers for years, here are the things we wish someone would put in a guide. So we're putting them in this one.

• A 10% service charge is automatically added to every restaurant bill — that's your tip. You don't HAVE to leave more, but an extra 5-10% for great service is always appreciated
• On top of that, there's a 13% IVA (sales tax). So that $20 entree becomes about $24.60 on your bill. Don't be shocked when the check arrives
• Most real restaurants accept Visa and Mastercard. BUT — most sodas are cash only. Bring colones
• Always pay in colones at sodas, supermarkets, and local spots. If you pay in dollars, they'll give you change at their exchange rate, and it won't be in your favor
• There is no McDonald's, Burger King, or Subway in La Fortuna. We consider this a feature, not a bug
• Servers will never rush you or bring the check before you ask. You literally have to say 'la cuenta, por favor' or you'll sit there forever. It's not bad service — it's Tico culture. We don't rush meals
• Almost every restaurant is open-air (roof but no walls). That's normal here. Bring a light layer for evenings, especially in green season

Quick Price Cheat Sheet

Here's your at-a-glance reference so you can plan your food budget. These are real prices as of 2026, not something we pulled from a 2019 blog post.

• Soda casado (lunch): $5-$8 / 2,500-4,000 colones
• Gallo pinto breakfast: $4-$7 / 2,000-3,500 colones
• Street empanada: $1.50-$2 / 750-1,000 colones
• Fresh juice or batido: $2-$3 / 1,000-1,500 colones
• Mid-range dinner entree: $10-$20 / 5,000-10,000 colones
• Craft beer: $6-$8 / 3,000-4,000 colones
• Local beer (Imperial, Pilsen): $2-$3 / 1,000-1,500 colones
• Cocktail: $5-$8 / 2,500-4,000 colones
• Don Rufino entree: $16-$48 / 8,000-24,000 colones
• Resort fine dining plate: $30-$60+ / 15,000-30,000+ colones
• Specialty coffee: $3-$5 / 1,500-2,500 colones

The Smart Budget Strategy

Here's what we tell every traveler who asks us how to eat well without going broke in La Fortuna: breakfast at your hotel or at a soda ($4-$7), lunch casado at a different soda each day ($5-$8), then pick one nice dinner to splurge on ($20-$40). Grab street snacks and batidos between meals. You'll spend maybe $35-$55 a day on food, you'll eat incredibly well, and you'll have tried everything from grandma's kitchen to volcano-view fine dining by the end of your trip.

Or, if budget isn't a concern, eat at Don Rufino every night. We won't judge. The Grandma's Chicken alone is worth the trip.

Getting to La Fortuna (Without the Stress)

Look, we're a shuttle company, so of course we're going to mention this — but it's genuinely useful: La Fortuna is about 3 hours from San José and about 3.5 hours from Liberia Airport. The roads are good but winding, and if you've just landed after a long flight, the last thing you want is to navigate mountain curves in an unfamiliar rental car while trying to figure out Waze in Spanish. We do this drive every single day. We know where the road construction is, where to stop for the best fruit stand, and we'll get you to your hotel relaxed and ready to eat.